Helsinki for New Year's Eve

The population of Finland is 5.5 million with 700,000 in Helsinki, which makes a smallish city. I had no preconceptions about Helsinki so I was open to whatever I discovered.

Frozen Harbour

We arrived in Helsinki around 2.45 in the afternoon and it was easy to get from the airport by train to the main railway station from the airport. Our hotel wasn’t far from the station, but as there were two parts to the street and the map, we had was indistinct we managed long way round. As it gets dark early it throws one’s perspective of time out. We conducted an initial exploration of the city the various streets, pedestrian malls, parks and shops. While we were looking in one of the shops that sold beautiful glassware, they had mugs with these cute little creatures on them ‘Moomins’, they sparked a memory of a children’s book I knew about from a study I did of children’s literature over thirty years ago. I gave it some thought and up popped the name of the book ‘The Finn Family Moomintroll’ by Tove Johansson, then we discovered souvenirs of these little book creatures everywhere and in all the museum shops, it became quite a joke. There is even a Moomin cafe!

"Moomintrolls!

The Christmas decorations were still around and were beautiful. Like Vienna these decorations look spectacular and I think because it’s dark and the lights on them show up to their advantage. We found a small place called Venn for dinner, we had hamburgers, mine was a veggie one.

We made our way down to the market square and stopped at Tuomiokirkko (Helsinki Cathedral) which dominates the area as it’s on a hill.  It is a fine chalk white neo-classical Lutheran Church as such is quite plain inside compared to Baroque and Gothic cathedrals designed by the architect Carl Ludwig Engel.

We then continued down to the waterfront the sea close to the coast was frozen the stark leafless trees presented a haunting scene against the mist and snow. As walk along the waterfront we found a café open so we warmed up with some coffee and I it turned out to be one of the very well-known ones.

Just above the waterfront is Upsenskin Kathedral which was originally built as a Russian Orthodox Church in 1868 from eye-catching red brick and towers over Katajanokka Island. It has the classic golden topped onion domes and now serves a Finnish orthodox congregation.

The famous indoor market at the water’s edge was a good place for lunch with stalls selling a wide range of delicatessen treats such as bear, reindeer and elk salami as well as fish, salmon and smoked salmon galore and a great range of baked goods.

Upsenkin Kathedral

We then went to the Anteneum – Art Gallery, which had an extensive art collection, mainly of Finnish artists. I love looking at the local artists of various places as one often doesn’t get to see them anywhere else. It was set in a manner that provided information about the social history of the time which is reflected in the art work. After we left the gallery, we watch the ice skaters in the square next to the station, marvelling at their ability, even little children showed confidence on the ice.

The following day a short ferry ride to Soumenlinna Island. It was worth a visit. During the Swedish era beginning 1748 fortification on the island began ending 40 years later. There are 6 museums on the island and we visited just a couple as we were only there a day. There are some delightful cafes to indulge in a coffee or lunch. Everything is well set out with various routes marked so one can get a feel of the history of the island.

On our second full day we went to Finnish Museum which presents Finnish history from the stone age to the present day as well as cultural history through a range of artefacts. The building itself is magnificent with ceiling frescoes in the entrance hall. Whenever I visit museums of non-prominent countries of the world, I always feel just how little I know, even though I’ve studied European history.

We then went to the famous Temppeliaukion Church, known as the ‘Rock’ Church. It is a Lutheran church which was designed by the architects the brothers Suomalainen and is built directly into solid rock and was completed in 1969. The church furnishing was also designed by the architects and the organ is magnificent with 43 stops and 3001 pipes. The church itself plus the simplicity of the interior which give the church its special awe-inspiring atmosphere.

Finnish Museum

We then wandered back to base and that evening dined at the restaurant ‘Lost in Helsinki’.

New Year’s Eve we decide to go to the Botanical Gardens however as it was winter the greenhouse was closed much to our disappointment. We then walked down to the coast to visit the City Museum, which had some interesting exhibits but was geared to children. After which we wandered around the shops again and just for fun, we went to the Moomin Café. After lunch it had started to snow so back to the hotel for a while before dinner. 

Then around 10.00pm we went down to the square where there was New Year’s Eve entertainment and the eventual countdown prior to midnight. This was the square of Helsinki cathedral, security to get into the area was tight, the crowd was exceedingly well behaved and not overly squashy. The entertainment was great with a variety of music and as the time was getting closer to midnight the snow became heavier, then the countdown. At midnight the fireworks all came off the cathedral, it was absolutely magic. It may not have been as spectacular as many of the larger more prominent world cities but there was a very special atmosphere and experience. Afterwards a very orderly crowd made exited without any incidents.

Kamppi Chapel

New Year’s Day in Helsinki is basically a dead day as there isn’t much open.  The shops were closed though the Christmas markets were still open so gave me an opportunity to buy some presents, we had some lunch at the market then went to the Kamppi Chapel (Chapel of Silence) is quite small and is located in Narinkka Square near a shopping mall and is intended to give people a chance to have a calm moment in one of the busiest areas in Helsinki. It is an ecumenical chapel and is very popular. Just entering it has a calming effect. Overall for the day we just relaxed.

The following day we were off to Iceland and as we were going on a small group tour we were met at the airport and taken to our hotel we saved us negotiating the transport.

Helsinki's Main Railway Station