Temple of Heaven |
On the first full day we were going
to go to the Forbidden City but it was closed. I booked a trip to visit the
Great Wall at Mutianyu a little further out than Badaling so not quite so
crowded, the trip also takes in the Spirit Way which is a 7km approach to the
tombs which is lined with 18 pairs of giant guardians – stone statues of court
officials, imperial warriors, animals and mythical beasts.
After booking our trip we went to
the Lama and Confucius Temples. The Lama Temple was a major centre for Tibetan
Buddhism however during the Cultural Revolution it was shut down and only saved
from destruction by Zhou Enlai. The Confucius Temple also suffered during this
time the temples within the complex being converted to other uses or just
abandoned. The attitude to Confucian values has changed as the leaders now can
see how they use them for their benefit; however, it is disappointing to see
the important temples in the complex neglected.
Our trip to the Great Wall followed
the next day and it certainly was an eye-opener for me. I had visited this part
of the wall 5 years earlier, apart from the fact the weather was very
different, the whole entrance had changed so much that I thought there must be
two entrances to it. On the first visit, a cobbled path led to the entrance
with souvenir shops on either side, now there is a wide paved path and a cable
car up to the entrance to the wall proper. On the first visit there was only
one large souvenir shop that also had a small café which sold hot drinks, now
there is the franchise of a ‘Subway’ that not being a great improvement in my
mind.
The Great Wall Mutianyu |
The Forbidden City beckoned on the
following day and another change which was very noticeable was the security
around this area, you have to pass through this just to get to buy a ticket,
they scrutinised our passports thoroughly even checking our visas. Not only
police but military were everywhere with large intimidating police trucks on
the corners of the streets.
The Forbidden City is just awe
inspiring and the crowds are even greater than my previous visits. I’m still
not sure what the optimum time of the day is best to avoid the hordes.
We then went to Hou Hai Lake north
of the Forbidden City. We took the subway to Gulou Dajie, then got was talked
into taking a Hutong tour in a pedal rickshaw, I agreed only if he dropped us
off next to the lake when finished. The tour was enjoyable and interesting and
even passed Mao Zedong’s house. The lake is very picturesque and worth a visit.
Mao Zedong's house |
We also visited Tiananmen Square
also with the same high security checks to actually set foot in it as was to
buy a ticket for the Forbidden City we wandered through the square to the south
and came across the street Liulichang which has had old buildings restored Chinese
old world feel about it and sells a range of local products. We had a very nice
lunch in one of the many little cafés along this street.
Hou Hai Lake |
We left Beijing after just over 4
days as a stopover before heading to Mongolia
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