We left Beijing late in the evening and arrived in Ulan
Bator nearly at midnight. As we decided to go on a small group tour, we were
relieved that we would be met at the airport and whizzed to our hotel without
having to think.
We had a whole day to check out the city before we met up
with the group and tour leader. We visited Genghis Khan Square there was a lot
of activity there with groups of locals visiting the city, wedding parties,
associations etc many in the local costumes, from there we went to the National
History Museum which was well worth the visit, then we found the Lama Temple
Museum originally built in1904 it is worth a visit but has a hefty fee if you
wish to take photos inside.
Genghis Khan Square |
In the evening we met the tour leader and the rest of the
group (12 in all including us). We discovered we were having an extremely early
start the following morning as we were flying to Dalanzagad it seemed quite a
large but unremarkable town, though we had no time to explore much as we
shopped for snacks and water then into one of the three four wheel drives and
we then sped off to explore the Gobi Desert. We stopped for a short hike at
Yolyn Am /Vulture Canyon. It was really an easy stroll and I saw a cute native
rodent, birds and interesting flora. We arrived at a slab of thick ice between
the walls of the canyon rocks that looked like it could have been part of a
glacier, but it’s just the remnants of the ice field. After this we had lunch
then headed to our first ger camp (Gobi Mirage). We were allocated our gers, I
learnt very quickly to bend low to enter and leave due to low doorways.
Vulture Canyon |
The following day we drove to our next camp, the drive
through the Gobi Desert was fascinating, it is not sandy but made up sparse
shrubs and gravel there were a number of wild horses that look very emaciated some
on the verge of death. We also saw many herds of goats and sheep, however goats
predominated as there is more money to be had from there cashmere fleece.
Cashmere Goats |
We arrived at our next ger accommodation at the Khongor Dunes
we had a packed lunch then we were on our way to visit a nomadic family. The family we were set up to visit had moved
on our drive we went in search of another family. We literally saw a ger with
children playing and asked them to get their parents and our guide asked if we
could visit. The 12 of us plus our guide shuffled into their ger sat around
while the woman made us a milk tea with barley then dried meat cooked in it. We
all had a taste not wasn’t as bad as it sounds. Our guide had bought supplies
on our behalf to give the family as a thank you.
The next day we had a camel ride. The Bactrian camels have
an ideal place to sit between their humps, unfortunately it’s on the spine and
the saddle was not comfortable so the whole ordeal was very painful. I have ridden
both types of camels and neither has been an enjoyable experience (never
again). We arrived at some of the dunes and in front of them was a stream and
the area was green with a number of families with their flocks camp by.
Sand Dunes |
The Khongor dunes are beautiful and extend 180km along the
north side of the mountains and due the prevailing winds they don’t encroach
into the countryside. We climbed the dunes which was not too difficult but
nearing the top it seemed one step forward two back but eventually made it with
a little help from those already at the top. We then had a free afternoon to
wander around the countryside near our camp.
The next day off to Bayanzag, The Flaming Hills where the
first fossilized dinosaur eggs were found. It’s a stark brilliant russet red
landscape similar to Central Australia. I was exhilarating to walk around the
area imagining the excitement of making that discovery.
We then headed off to a rather nondescript town for lunch
followed by a long drive to our next ger camp (Gobi Mirage).
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